Seoul is a most interesting mix of contrasts: tradition, development, hip boutiques, kitschy street shops selling socks, a foodie’s delight, wired to the max, along with an undertow of political edginess. Alas, it is just 35 miles from the North Korean border. And did I mention the shopping? I never did figure out when the shops closed. Some I think were open 24 hours. It can all be too much unless you force yourself to schedule downtime which we did, using the hotel’s fitness facilities, pool (swim cap required!) and sauna.